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What Is Happening in the BBG Herb Gardens and Kitchen?

By Barbara F. Smith

The full impact of tropical temperatures hitting the Berkshires in the third week of May remains to be seen — although the flush of herbs blooming since last week was remarkable. Fortunately, this heat spell will last only a few days, and more typical Spring temperatures will follow. 

As you turn to the right from the Center House to enter the Herb Display Garden, your gaze will be captivated by the stunning blooms of Iris Germanica var. Florentina, the so-called German (or bearded) Iris, whose rhizomes are valuable in the fragrance world. The genus Iris has more than 300 species with thousands of named cultivars, but the variety called Florentina is our topic today. Iris are popular, herbaceous perennials, growing 16-40” tall, and hardy to zone 5. They thrive in sunlight and fertile, well-drained soil.

The flowers of Florentina are a “very pale blue, best described as pearly white,” and bear a sweet iris odor. These are among the very first bearded irises to bloom in early spring; one writer declared “no other spring flowering plant in the herb garden is as pristinely beautiful as iris” (see photos).

The use of the “orris roots” (the rhizomes) from this variety dates to the 1600s and became a major item for the perfumery business peaking around 1850. The rootstock is dried for two to five years and serves as “one of the most potent and enduring violet fragrances.” Orris is used as a fixative and as a base note in perfume. It blends well with cassis, rose, bergamot and lavender.

Beyond perfume, orris powder is added to potpourri, sachets and herb pillows. Historically, orris was widely used as a hair powder (esp. in wigs) and in cosmetics. Today, it is an unexpected botanical flavoring agent in some gin varieties such as Beefeater and Bombay Sapphire.

Turning to the “dye” bed, Isatis tinctoria – otherwise known as Woad – is currently covered in airy, yellow blossoms on three feet tall stems with blue-green leaves, followed by clusters of black berries. Woad is native to central Europe and central Asia, although it is now naturalized in parts of North America, Northern Europe and Britain.

One author wrote “woad is indisputably the most stunning dye plant in flower. It’s also one of the most historic, having been used by the Picts of England as a styptic for battle wounds.” Woad’s medicinal use is restricted to external poultices used to stop bleeding, or to ease inflamed skin or sores.

Woad has been described as the only temperate-climate source of blue dye (tropical indigo also yields blue). So-called “woadmen” gathered mature leaves in mid-summer, chopped, dried and aged them on racks, later to be pounded into pigment. While woad has been a source of blue dye since Roman times, if combined with other mordant substances, it can be used to make green, red and purple tints. More recently, in the 1900’s the popular use of woad declined with the introduction of chemical dyes.

This week’s nod to history relating to early settlement of what became the United States goes to Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens), sometimes called creeping wintergreen. A member of the Ericaceae (heath) family, it thrives in acid soil. The genus derives its name from Jean-Francois Gaultier, a Quebec naturalist and physician in the mid-1700s.

Native to North America east of the Mississippi and from Canada south to Georgia, this small ground cover grows about 4 inches tall, spreading annually. It bears dark green glossy leaves. In favorable conditions, it can bloom twice a year in spring and at summer’s end. The tiny, dangling blossoms are bell-shaped, followed by white or bright red berries. A single winterberry plant can have blossoms, green berries and ripe berries all at once. 

Wintergreen provides winter food for squirrels, chipmunks, deer, mice, grouse, partridges, turkeys and occasional red foxes. Regional names include teaberry, leatherleaf, boxberry and Canadian mint.

Many Native Americans (Penobscot, Sioux, Algonquins, Nez Perce and others) prepared a tea made from wintergreen leaves for various ailments – to ease aching muscles and joints (as brought by arthritis); to ease swelling and inflammation; and to ease fever, sore throat, upset stomach and ulcers. Some used the roots to prepare an infusion to address kidney ailments. The leaves contain methyl salicylates (as in aspirin), which have antiseptic qualities. The colonists learned from the indigenous people about this plant and its uses.

During the American Revolution, colonists often substituted wintergreen for heavily taxed imported tea.

Oil of wintergreen has a sweet, aromatic minty taste now used in gum, candy, toothpaste and birch beer. In some areas of the country, wintergreen-flavored “teaberry” ice cream is available, and teaberry gum has been available for decades. In aromatherapy, the essential oil is used in a diffuser to reduce stress. Culinarily, wintergreen berries can be used in pies or jams.

After inventorying the kitchen and the Herb Production garden, the Herb Associates Kitchen Crew began the season’s work by preparing Forsythia Jelly, a new product. Dandelion Jelly will be next. Those items should be available in the last week of May at the BBG Gift Shop. In the cool kitchen, the Crew prepared a batch of J. Wilson’s Tarragon French Dressing, utilizing tarragon, chives, and parsley, just picked. The lovely scent of freshly-chopped herbs filled the kitchen – what a delicious way to start the season.

Thank you for your ongoing interest in all things herbal. Return again for updates on the gardens and handiwork of the BBG Herb Associates.

Particular resources this week: The New American Herbal by Stephen Orr; Rodale’s Encyclopedia of Herbs; Native Plant Trust/Go Botany; Plant Medicines.org

The Berkshire Botanical Garden’s Herb Associates began in 1957 and have been making and selling products for the benefit of BBG ever since. At BBG, the Herb Associates oversee a display garden and production garden, both located near the Center House. Members/volunteers meet every Tuesday morning during the late spring through mid-autumn each year, coinciding when the gardens themselves are open to the public. Members plant, weed and tend the gardens, as well as harvest and process the variety of herbs.