Sage and Carolina Allspice

By Barbara F. Smith 

Solstice is upon us, with the BBG Herb Gardens burgeoning under the glory of sunshine, blossoms and bees. This week’s offering will discuss other categories of use for the well-loved culinary herb – sage – and will acquaint you with details of Carolina Allspice, a shrub worthy of addition to your garden.

There are hundreds of varieties of sage. It is Common Garden Sage (Salvia officinalis) putting on a floral show in the Herb Display Garden. With a height of 2-3 feet, this hardy perennial with woody, wiry stems bears long, oval, greyish leaves and delicate flowers arranged in “whorls” (spirals or multiple concentric circles) in shades of blue (other varieties might have purple, pink or white flowers). Sage has a unique warm/spicy scent with a note of camphor and eucalyptus; both in flavor and fragrance it is slightly bitter and resinous. Sage is a popular herb added to Thanksgiving turkey dressing or featured in brown butter sage sauce for pasta. It is often used to flavor sausages, and it provides flavor notes in liqueurs and bitters. The fresh flowers are edible and may be used as a savory garnish on grain dishes or pizza, for example.

Beyond culinary applications, sage is useful in many ways. For centuries, sage was regarded as a medicinal herb, believed to promote longevity and fertility. The genus name “Salvia” derives from the Latin word relating to healing or salvation. Medicinally, sage oils have antiseptic, antimicrobial, astringent and irritant properties, used for treating sore throats, mouth irritations, cuts and bruises, for example. 

The fragrance of sage is used in perfumes, soaps and cosmetics. Sage flowers attract bees, which then make “splendidly aromatic” honey. The foliage of sage dries well, with the resulting stems or leaves used for craft purposes in potpourri or wreaths. Sage may also be used for dyeing, producing yellow or buff tones with an alum mordant; yellow tones with a chrome mordant; and a greenish-gray tone an iron mordant.

Several Native American peoples use sage in smudging rituals for spiritual cleansing or blessing with the intention of ridding unwanted influences.

In addition to the Common Garden Sage mentioned, the Display Garden recently added a planting of Pineapple Sage (Salvia elegans). Hardy to Zone 9, this vigorous, strong-stemmed plant has red-tinged green leaves scented of pineapples. One writer likened it to the flavor of “cream-colored Lifesavers in the 5 Fruits flavor roll.” This variety does not have the camphor scent. Hummingbirds are especially attracted to pineapple sage.

Along one edge of the Herb Display Garden you’ll find Carolina Allspice (Calycanthus floridus, var. Michael Lindsey), also known as Eastern Sweetshrub. This well-branched, deciduous shrub grows 6-10 feet tall with lush dark green leaves that turn golden in the fall. Its exceptionally fragrant dark red/brown flowers make this shrub a fine choice for a sensory garden area. The fragrance has been described as similar to strawberries, bananas and pineapples combined, with calming, or mood enhancing, impact. Blooming during Spring, Carolina Allspice is native to America; it tolerates deer browsing. The Michael Lindsey variety has shiny leaves, and its blooms attract butterflies and support certain beetles. The flower stems can be cut for bouquets or to dry and use in potpourris. The shrub’s bark is edible and reportedly may be used as a substitute for cinnamon.

The flower petals of Carolina Allspice have been used in medicinal teas to promote sweating or aid in fever reduction. Certain Native Americans used the leaves to induce vomiting as a “means of detoxification or purging in spiritual or medicinal contexts.” The leaves have anti-spasmodic and disinfectant properties. This lovely shrub thrives in sun or shade, is not fussy about soil, and requires minimal care. Perhaps consider adding one to your garden to enjoy its beauty and fragrance!

In the warm Kitchen, the crew made a batch of Mint Jelly, using spearmint leaves as the base. Think mint jelly is just a condiment to use with roasted lamb? This versatile produce can enhance all sorts of dishes. Here are some suggestions: warm a few tablespoons and add to carrots, sweet potatoes, or parsnips before roasting them; use in a marinade along with equal parts lime and lemon juice; add mint jelly to taste to a mix of chocolate cereal or cookie crust for an ice cream pie that’s fully flavored; or, make a yogurt dipping sauce (including Greek yogurt, chopped garlic, diced cucumbers, mint leaves and mint jelly, and lemon juice) – to serve with chicken wings or crispy eggplant, for example.

The crew is savoring the bounty of rhubarb, once again preparing a batch of Ginger Rhubarb Jam, utilizing fresh rhubarb and crystalized ginger. Because of its sweet/tart flavor, this jam is versatile! Try it as a glaze for savory proteins, pair it with savory cheese, or use it as a sweet breakfast spread. Add a spoonful to yogurt and oats; bake it with brie, or spread a layer inside cheese and greens quesadilla to add zing. Pictured above are two of our chefs posing with a giant rhubarb leaf (definitely not the edible part) and a finished jar of the jam.

In the cool Kitchen, the crew prepared Sweet & Sour Stir-Fry Sauce, ready to enhance your favorite wok combinations – chicken, pork, shrimp, tofu, and/or vegetables. Or try it as a dip for spring rolls, dumplings or tempura. Yum! 

The “Shrub” season has begun, too, and this time we mean the original drink mixes with beneficial health properties. Fruit, sugar and vinegar are combined to produce a tangy, refreshing and versatile syrup. Shrubs were popular in colonial America as a way to preserve fruit from spoiling and enjoy it long after harvesting. These syrups add depth and complexity to your drink of choice, whether that’s lemonade, seltzer or your favorite summertime mocktail or cocktail. The beginning preparations for Mango Mint Shrub, Kiwi Mint Shrub and Rhubarb Shrub are underway. On your next trip to BBG, check the Gift Shop for availability of these seasonal delights!

That’s the latest update from the BBG Herb Associates. We appreciate your ongoing interest in all things herbal.

The Berkshire Botanical Garden’s Herb Associates began in 1957 and have been making and selling products for the benefit of BBG ever since. At BBG, the Herb Associates oversee a display garden and production garden, both located near the Center House. Members/volunteers meet every Tuesday morning during the late spring through mid-autumn each year, coinciding when the gardens themselves are open to the public. Members plant, weed and tend the gardens, as well as harvest and process the variety of herbs.