What is Happening in the Herb Garden and Kitchens This Week?

By Barbara F. Smith

Although the Herb Associates’ gardening season is winding down, we have time to discuss at least two more herbs. Artemisia abrotanum, commonly known as Southernwood, is thriving in the fragrance bed of the BBG Herb Display Garden (See photo, above). The genus name references Artemis, the Greek goddess of the moon, wild animals and hunting. Another resource suggests the genus name relates to Queen Artemisia of Coria, a Turkish female botanist who lived about 400 BCE. The handsome memorial she built to her husband Mausolus, became one of the “Seven Wonders of the Ancient World” and the origin of the word mausoleum.

Also known as “Old Man” or “Lad’s Love,” Southernwood is a perennial subshrub grown for its “magnificent and strongly aromatic ferny, light-green foliage” on branches that can become woody at the base. Southernwood may grow to 2-4 feet tall and 2-3 feet wide. It is hardy to zone 5, drought-tolerant, and suitable for xeriscape gardening.  

Native to Europe and Asia, Southernwood was introduced to Central and South America in the early 1600’s by Jesuit priests who joined European colonizers. It has naturalized in the northeast U.S., particularly in fields, roadsides and waste areas. The plant is easily propagated by seed, root division or semi-hardwood stem cuttings in late summer.  

Its culinary virtues are somewhat limited. Southernwood has a “surprisingly bitter” taste. Nevertheless, it can be added in small amounts to salad dressings or dips. Leaves are used to flavor meats, cottage cheese and alcoholic beverages such as vermouth and liqueurs, and teas. In households, branches of its foliage have been used to discourage vermin, bees and moths. In a similar vein, in gardens, Southernwood may be planted near fruit trees to protect them from fruit tree moths and near cabbage to repel cabbage moths.  

One writer characterized Southernwood as a “plant species with an ‘important position’ in the history of European and Asian medicine, used successfully in liver and bile duct diseases and in parasitic diseases in children. It has antibacterial, antifungal, antioxidant, anticancer, and antiallergic properties.” It is one of the better-known medicinal species of the genus.  Today, it is found primarily in homeopathic medicines to treat inflammation of the colon or the lymph nodes, rosacea and frostbite.

Interestingly, current pharmacological studies have provided new, previously unknown directions of biological activities. In light of contemporary research, “Artemisia abrotanum appears to be an attractive species with valuable medicinal, culinary and cosmetic qualities.”

The more familiar herb for discussion today is Gallium odoratum, more commonly known as “Sweet Woodruff” – a shade-loving, low-growing perennial herb, found in the BBG Herb Display Garden (See photo, above). You can recognize it when blooming (in May) by its small white flowers, under which bright green leaves in whorls appear. It makes a good low-maintenance carpet in shady areas. 

Thanks to its pleasant fragrance (due to coumarin), Sweet Woodruff is used in perfumery, not only for its scent but its ability to ‘fix’ other odors. It has been used to disguise disagreeable odors, as well. When newly gathered, Sweet Woodruff has little odor, but when dried it has a “most refreshing scent of new-mown hay” and vanilla. As a dried herb, Woodruff is kept among linens like lavender to preserve them from insects. It is also used in potpourri.

Medieval churches hung decorative garlands of Sweet Woodruff at holidays, and it was used medicinally to heal wounds and aid heart and liver ailments. Later legend has it that if Queen Elizabeth I took a fancy to someone, she would send a spray of Sweet Woodruff as a sign of admiration.

In a culinary vein, Sweet Woodruff is an important component in preparing the “Mai Bowle” — which the Herb Associates serve at the celebration marking the opening of the BBG season in May. The basic recipe consists of two parts white wine, one part sparkling wine, and a quantity of Sweet Woodruff flowers, all to be chilled and garnished with small strawberries. This festive presentation of adding herbs to young wine has the practical purpose of infusing a refreshing herbal flavor. Woodruff flowers and leaves make delicious tea, as well.

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE BBG KITCHENS THIS WEEK?

The Kitchen Crew had great energy for their many tasks! In the cool kitchen, a batch of Lavender Salt was prepared for such uses as seasoning scallops, chicken or lamb chops, fresh fruit, or grilled sweet potatoes. Dill Salt was bottled — what a beautiful green color! Another finishing salt was made, named Rosemary Garlic Lemon Zest Salt. Yet more ingredients were assembled, chopped and blended (see photo) with Fresh Tarragon Dressing as the tasty result (See photo, above). A new Fall Shrub was created, featuring apples, rosemary, cinnamon, vinegar, and sugar — delicious! The ever-popular Salt-Free Sandwich Sprinkle herb blend was also prepared.

In the warm kitchen, a new batch of Apple Thyme Jam was cooked, with a chunky consistency and a lovely golden color (See photo, above). Another round of Harvest Marmalade was prepared, the ever-popular crowd-pleaser. These seasonal products marked a fitting end to the planting, growing, harvesting, chopping, stripping, cooking, and bottling season for 2025. Only one more Herb Associates meeting before the Harvest Festival, with no time to report on more products before then. So, make a point to stop by the Herb Associates stand outside the Center House at the Festival. You’ll see a selection of the many products we make for you to enjoy or give to others, and you’ll get to meet some Herb Associates who make it all happen. As a bonus, all proceeds benefit the BBG. See you soon!

Particular Resources this Week: The New American Herbal by Stephen Orr, Clarkson Potter (2014); Rodale’s Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs, Claire Kowalchik and William Hynton, editors, Rodale Press (1987); North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox; National Library of Medicine/National Center for Biotechnology Information “Artemesia Abrotanum: History, Current Knowledge on … Traditional Use and Possible New …Applications”; Missouri Botanical Garden.org.

The Berkshire Botanical Garden’s Herb Associates began in 1957 and has been making and selling products for the benefit of BBG ever since. At BBG, the Herb Associates oversee a display garden and production garden, both located near the Center House. Members/volunteers meet every Tuesday morning during the late spring through mid-autumn each year, coinciding when the gardens themselves are open to the public. Members plant, weed and tend the gardens, as well as harvest and process the variety of herbs.