What is Happening in the Herb Garden and Kitchens This Week?

By Barbara F. Smith

Even though it is a single plant, our famous herb for discussion this week is really known as two: Cilantro (the leaves) and Coriander (the seeds, which are technically a fruit) (see photo, above). The leaves have a “compelling” fragrance — some say, like stinkbugs — and the seeds/fruits smell flowery and citrusy.

Coriandrum sativum, the Latin name for the herb, was introduced in the Americas by Spanish colonizers. Native to southwest Asia and the Mediterranean, Coriander was cultivated by several ancient cultures, with remains excavated from as long ago as 9600 BCE. The word coriander derives from the Greek “koris” meaning bedbug. History indicates that Coriander was used as an ingredient in Roman vinegar to preserve meat. Records of the uses of Coriander seeds are plentiful, although the use of the leaves seems to have developed in more recent times, relatively speaking.

The flavor of Cilantro leaves, which look like flat-leafed parsley, inspires strong opinions, with detractors describing it as soapy, or as famed chef Julia Child described the flavor as “kind of a dead taste.”  

Detractors aside, Cilantro is cultivated widely and used in cooking around the world. Cilantro leaves combine well with spicy and pungent food. As one writer put it, Cilantro is “what makes guacamole sing.” In contrast, Coriander seeds are often added to sausages, pickles, marinades, and salad dressings, and their flavor combines well with oysters, clams, onions, and potatoes.  

Beyond culinary uses, Coriander seeds contain “about 60% or more linalool, the same essential oil found in lavender, bergamot citrus and orange flowers.” Coriander oil is used as a flavoring in some alcoholic beverages, chiefly gin and some liqueurs, and tobacco. The seed oil has antimicrobial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties, although it is not much used for medicinal purposes.  Interestingly, famous perfume blends such as Chanel No. 5, Arpe and White Linen are classified as “aldehydic,” the same descriptor for cilantro’s penetrating fragrance from aldehydic molecules, imparting a “fresh, lemony scent.”

Coriander is generally grown from seeds sown after the danger of frost has passed, and the plant prefers full sun and light, loamy soil.  It is susceptible to fungus, wilt disease, leaf and flower spot, and powdery mildew. Growers may harvest the leaves about one month after sowing by cutting the plant’s outermost leaves. When the central flower stalk rises, leaf production ends. Cilantro leaves do not dry well, but they can be frozen or preserved in salted oil. Once the flowers have produced the seeds, growers may harvest them by cutting the stems when about half the seeds have turned from green to tan.  After placing the stems in paper bags to dry, it’s an easy task to later remove the dried seeds by shaking the bags and removing the rest by hand. Seeds may be stored out of direct light for a year. 

The lesser-known herb of the week is Santolina virens, also known as Green Santolina, or sometimes as Lavender Cotton (see photo above). This perennial herb grows to 2 feet tall, with rich green, or grey-green, aromatic leaves and yellow, clustered buttons of flowers. Its fragrance is described as “penetrating and unusual,” smelling somewhat like chamomile, and the leaves may cause contact dermatitis in some people.

Santolina is a genus of about twelve species, whose name is derived from the Latin Sanctum linum, or “holy flax.” In former times, Santolina was used in culinary and medicinal applications, for example, to aid with indigestion or as a deworming treatment for children. Santolina was particularly popular in Elizabethan and Stuart England to create mazes, floral sundials or knot gardens. In modern times, santolina remains a favorite for cultivating as a small foundation shrub or low hedge. Once cut, the flowers are often used in potpourri or in dried arrangements.

On a quick view of the Herb Display Gardens, the lavender continues its glorious show (see photo above). Do stop by to see the beautiful display of scores of herb varieties to be found there, near the Center House.

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE BBG HERB KITCHEN?

As ever, the Herb Associates Kitchen Crew responds creatively to the ongoing harvest of abundant herbs.  Branches and leaves of lemon verbena, lemon balm, parsley, and chocolate mint were laid out to dry.  Garlic scapes (shown) were incorporated in salad dressing.  A new flavor was added to the Shrub line — Blueberry Basil Shrub, for introducing some interesting seasonal notes to your iced tea, lemonade, favorite cocktail or mocktail! Thyme Lemon Finishing Salt was assembled and awaits labeling. Tarragon Vinegar was bottled.  A new flavor of preserves was made — Peach Lavender Jam (see preliminary photo above).

This series of articles on the work of the BBG Herb Associates, published most weeks during the growing season, tracks the progress of gardening in the Herb Display and Production Gardens from planting and tending, pruning and harvesting, through the preparation of numerous products featuring herbs, all with the bonus of some science and history surrounding these remarkable plants through the ages.  We hope to encourage our readers to start or expand their collection of herbs, whether in their garden or on their windowsill.  Nothing beats the opportunity to snip a few leaves or stems for your latest culinary treat!

Particular resources this week: The Culinary Herbal by Susan Belsinger and Arthur O. Tucker, Timber Press (2016); Rodale’s Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs, C. Kowalchik and William H. Hylton, Editors, Rodale Press (1987), The New American Herbal by Stephen Orr, Clarkson Potter Publishers (2014).  

The Berkshire Botanical Garden’s Herb Associates began in 1957 and have been making and selling products for the benefit of BBG ever since. At BBG, the Herb Associates oversee a display garden and production garden, both located near the Center House. Members/volunteers meet every Tuesday morning during the late spring through mid-autumn each year, coinciding with when the gardens themselves are open to the public. Members plant, weed and tend the gardens, as well as harvest and process the variety of herbs.